Bicycle Wheel

Argentina's Best Tourist Season

Argentina is a wonderful country with a vibrant culture. Its capital Buenos Aires has been called the South American Barcelona, but I think that is unfair to a city as magnificent and unique as this. Buenos Aires, and Argentina in general, is much more European than other parts of South America, but it retains the South American vibe. It also retains a fantastic exchange rate, around 4 pesos to the dollar.

When to go to Argentina depends on what you want to do or see. The most important thing to remember about the southern hemisphere is that the seasons are reversed. Summer is hottest in January, and winter is coldest at the end of July, beginning of August. That said, visiting Argentina over Christmas is not the best idea. The REST of the world goes to Argentina then. When I went to Mar del Plata - a resort city 250 miles south of Buenos Aires, my friends there told me that December to February the beaches are standing room only. For the best weather and least tourist interference, I recommend March through June.

I have been to Argentina twice: once to Mar del Plata for March, once to Buenos Aires from the end of May through the first half of July. In March we were in the 70's and 80's most of the time. By the time we hit July, it was in the 50's for most of the day. Winter in this area is not what you would call extreme. When you leave the greater Buenos Aires area, you can run into more extreme temperatures depending on the season.

It is important to understand that Argentina is a huge country. The northern part is in the Amazon and the southern part reaches to Antarctica. Getting around is fairly simple. You can take a train or a bus anywhere in the country, or you can fly.

Now for the destinations. These are critical to know to plan the time of your trip.

The Greater Buenos Aires Area

I lived in the city of Buenos Aires for nearly 2 months, and I did not get to see nearly everyplace that I wanted. The city is massive with an extensive public transportation system. You can do anything in the city pretty much year round. March to June lets you miss the other tourist masses. From Buenos Aires there are many day trips you can take. San Antonio de Areco has the most popular estancias - gaucho ranches where you pay for a day's trip and are suitably entertained. There is lots of fantastic food and suitably dressed gauchos for the tourist in you. You can go to Uruguay. If you want to go to Tigre, a series of islands with artisanal shops in the Rio de La Plata, I would suggest you go a bit earlier in the year. As they say, Tigre is beautiful when the day is beautiful. The days get more overcast as June draws near. Other excursions, like going to the beach, may be 2 or 3 day jaunts and should be done in March.

NB: In Buenos Aires in particular, many people speak enough English to conduct some business transaction (market etc), but they simply do not want to use it. If you want to shop in the ferias (literally "fairs, " there is one every Sunday in most neighborhoods with vendors selling everything), learn numbers and handy phrases and expect tourist mark ups. Bargaining is not customary unless you know a price is outrageous. Then, get a native to bargain for you.

Tierra del Fuego

This, the Land of Fire, is basically Antarctica. It is apparently nicer in the warmer months, but I know people who have gone in the dead of winter and had a blast. I don't think it changes much with the seasons.

Iguazu

Iguazu Falls are located at the tri-border with Paraguay and Brazil. They are magnificent. This area is also home to the most visibly population of Guarani Indians in the country. The falls themselves are incredible. Around May, though, the dry season begins and visiting them can be hit or miss. There is a Brazilian side of the falls. Unless you are going to Brazil, I suggest you skip it. You have to purchase a tourist visa, which will set you back around $150 US. I recommend going around March and April.

NB: The Argentine government requires that all people returning from Iguazu have a yellow fever vaccine. The CDC identifies it as an area with malaria. Consult your physician, etc.

Mendoza

This is the heart of Argentine wine country. You can take bicycle tours to vineyards and go on tastings. You can also go horseback riding and rock climbing and all manner of adventure sports. You are, actually, beside a mountain. All of Mendoza's activities are available through at least mid-June.

Bariloche

This is also wine country, but more importantly this is skiing country. This is the trickiest place to avoid crowds. If you want to go skiing and skip Mendoza, any off-days you can go and do the vineyard thing. Around the beginning of July skiing starts up. The biggest tourism problem is Argentines. In July everyone goes on a two-week vacation, and many people go to Bariloche. If you want to ski, check when the Buenos Aires holidays are. Usually, they are the second half of July, but this year they were moved up.

In short, Argentina is a fantastic country with great tourist options. The best times to go are March to mid-July. The country has such great diversity that I suggest you make a long trip of it.